The Ceilidh Fiddle Sydney, Cape Breton, Nova Scotia (Photo by Dianne Pike)

As I start to pack my over-stuffed suitcases for my summer marathon journey across North America, I’m giddy with the thought of being surrounded by friends, family, food and feelings of home. Despite my current contentment with expat life, there are still a few things I miss about Eastern Canada. While sitting in a pub in Wales, a few weekends ago, I was reminded of another – Music.

While visiting our friends in the UK, several weekends ago, we decided to head to a pub and catch some live music. As I sat there in the dim light with my glass of box-wine, listening to the melody of guitar and fiddle, I was suddenly home-sick for something I didn’t realized I missed. To be honest, the music wasn’t that good. But sitting there with my friends and having nothing to do but enjoy a tune reminded me of home.

I’m not a musical person. In fact I can’t carry a tune in a bucket with a lid. The rest of my family’s musical talents are lacking as well. That never stopped us though. There was always music around; on the kitchen radio, in the car, in Dad’s workshop. When the three of us went on road-trips together, the tapes were always packed first. What we lacked in musicality we made up for in volume. It didn’t matter if it was ABBA or John Denver, we sang along with gusto.

Chris from Sloan in Halifax (Photo by HeavyMetalMomma)

Eastern Canada has a strong tradition of music. There is a rich Celtic influence from the Irish and Scottish immigrants who settled here. It’s not uncommon for bands to have a bag-piper and traditional instruments like the bodhrán often make an appearance.

The Acadian French have left their musical mark on the East coast as well. You can hear it in the fiddles and accordions they took with them all the way to Louisiana and back. The Black Loyalists brought gospel music to Eastern Canada, where it still has strong roots to this day.

But East Coast music isn’t all folk songs and tradition. It’s also cutting edge – rock, pop, rap, country, you’ll find it all here. Sarah McLaghlan hails from Nova Scotia, as do  Sloan, Eric’s Trip, Jale, Thrush Hermit,  April Wine, and  Matt Minglewood.

There is music everywhere: in bars of course, always, but also in shops, restaurants, on the boardwalk, the streets, even occasionally on the ferry. There are concerts and festivals across the East Coast, all summer long for any style of music you can imagine.

Great Big Sea (Photo by Cindy Funk)

The thing about all of this music is you take it for granted; at least I did. Back in Halifax, I have several talented friends who are professional musicians. I have many more who just love to play for fun. There are signers, a handful of guitar players, a banjo-man, a piper, percussionists and a bassist. And that’s not counting the harmonicas and penny whistles that are sticking out of pockets.

It goes without saying that any East Coast gathering will involve beer, food and music. We call this a Kitchen Party. It’s informal, relaxed and most of all fun. A Kitchen Party is essentially just a big jam-session. Everyone sits around and plays or sings – no talent necessary. Many old standards will be hauled out – “Barrett’s Privateers” inevitably is sung in varying states of drunkenness. There will be 80s pop and power-ballads and lots of silliness. Mostly it will just be about good friends having a laugh together.

Sitting in that Welsh pub, I was transported to the pubs back home; to my own kitchen parties and I realised how much I look forward to being part of that scene again. So, Eastern Canada, thank you for the music that has been the soundtrack to my life. I’ll see you in the kitchen.

Some Nova Scotia Fiddle to get your toes tapping

A modern take on the Maritime Kitchen Party

Related posts:

1. I Love Nova Scotia
2. Playing for Change – Peace Through Music
3. Happy Canada Day!

7 Links

Darren Rowse over at Problogger has presented his readers with an interesting challenge – Establish 7 links to your blog to posts in the following categories:

• Your first post
• A post you enjoyed writing the most
• A post which had a great discussion
• A post on someone else’s blog that you wish you’d written
• Your most helpful post
• A post with a title that you are proud of
• A post that you wish more people had read

A few of my favourite bloggers have already taken the challenge and I wanted to add my 2 euro cents to the mix.

My First Post

Although CheeseWeb began back in 2004 while we were living in Amsterdam for 3 months, my first post as a bonafied expat was the following year. We had packed up our cats and a couple of suitcases and headed out for parts unknown. Life – The New Chapter was written after we landed in Amsterdam and the reality of expat life was setting in. The post talks about our flight with four cats, our temporary flat and our first days in the city. As you can see, it was written like a letter to friends and family, which it was, as I had no clue at the time what CheeseWeb would eventually become.

The post I enjoyed writing the most

I enjoy writing all of my posts; otherwise I wouldn’t write them. One of the most fun to write, and to read the responses to was Top 20 Signs You’ve Been an Expat in Brussels Too Long. Expat life changes you over time – sometimes for the good, sometimes for the… Belgian.

A post which had a great discussion

The posts that inspire the most discussion on CheeseWeb are often the ones I write out of frustration or sadness. Honesty and emotion strike a chord with people and it’s nice to know many of my readers have gone through similar rough times. The Fear of Standing Still was a post I wrote a few months ago about my indecisiveness on the direction my expat life should take. It was my most commented on post yet and I was amazed and humbled by the outpouring of support.

A post on someone else’s blog that I wish I’d written

Only one? Yikes… One of the most beautiful things I’ve read in a long, long time was a post called Why I Travel by the fabulous Jeannie over at Nomadic Chick. Jeannie’s writing is always evocative, but this post was beyond emotional. It was a touching tribute to her mother that brought tears to my eyes. Go read it.

My most helpful post

I think YOU need to answer this question. Go tell me in the comments now, I’ll wait… Since I’m supposed to choose one as well, My recent Flashback post, Singing the Expat Blues seemed to really strike a chord with people, even years after I wrote it. I’m planning on continuing with the Flashback posts so do let me know if there are any particular topics that interest you.

A post with a title I’m proud of

I HATE writing titles. It was my least favourite task back in Journalism school and it still is. Mostly now I have boring SEO friendly titles so I don’t get too creative. I was quite pleased with myself for The Key(s) to a Successful Marriage (You have to read it to find out why). In fact I don’t have many titles I’m proud of but I think this one sounds rather intriguing: Andrew has a nemesis and her name is Milan. You totally want to go read that now, don’t you?

A post I wish more people had read

What I actually wish is that more people had commented on My Expat Music Playlist. I love discovering new music so I’d love to hear about the songs that resonate with you in your expat life. Go read it and then leave me your comments so I can work on a new updated list.

I’d love to see your own responses to the 7 link challenge. If you do it, be sure to leave a link to your post below.

Related posts:

1. Expats Hit the Blogesphere
2. Singing the Expat Blues | Flashback
3. How Blogging (and Books) Saved my Expat Life

Mobile Operators in Belgium

In my last post, I wrote about Alison’s new phone, the HTC Desire. After bringing it home and setting it up, the next question was: which mobile operator should we use?

We hadn’t researched mobile operators before, as we hadn’t any need for fancy packages. A pay-as-you-go model was fine for years.  Now however, the new phone would also need  internet access. Suddenly we needed to learn what operators were available and what they offered for data plans (aka mobile internet, 3G).  So, with my usual penchant for details, I began to dig into what operators exist in Belgium and their offers for mobile internet on your smartphone.Before I list the operators, let me clarify a few things.  There are two types of mobile operators: those that run their own mobile networks (called Mobile Network Operators, MNOs) and those that use the mobile networks of other operators (called Mobile Virtual Network Operators or MVNOs). This shouldn’t cause you any problems, but I think it is important to understand whose network you are actually using, especially when you want to know if your camping spot in the Ardennes will have coverage!

Further, unlike fixed line networks, all mobile internet plans have monthly data usage caps ranging from 50MB to 2GB.  If you’re just checking out the occasional webpage, checking your email, twittering, etc then a plan that has 200MB is probably sufficient.  If you plan on visiting media rich websites with lots of images, flash, or videos, then the amount of data used will be much higher.  Make sure you keep an eye on your usage throughout the month to ensure you stay within your limit (usually there is an application for this). Pay attention to the costs if you exceed the included amount as well as what it will cost if you are roaming.

Finally, although mobile internet is becoming more advanced, the best case maximum download speed is typically between 5 and 7Mbps and uploading between 1 and 2Mbps (3G). In reality, the speeds will be much less, as they depend on where you are, the load on the network, and other environmental factors.  Because of the slower, more inconsistent speeds, I don’t expect mobile internet to be a replacement yet for broadband at home, although WiMAX (Clearwire) and next generation mobile technologies offer a glimpse towards a faster, more mobile future.

simcard for mobile phone

The following are the operators I’ve found in Belgium that offer data plans and a summary of their offers. There are many other operators (MVNOs) but a lot of them are not offering data plans.

• Proximus (MNO) – Owned by Belgacom, Proximus provides many different prepaid and postpaid mobile packages which can suit just about anyone. Mobile internet costs range from 0.50 euros per 100KB without a data package, to 24.99 euros for a 500MB per month data package  (19.99 euros if you take the current special promo, although you’re locked in for a year).  If you exceed the 200MB or 500MB plan the per MB charge is 0.03 euros.
• BASE (MNO) – Owned by KPN (incumbent dutch telephone operator), BASE provides different prepaid and postpaid plans for mobiles.  BASE offers mobile internet from 1 euro per 500KB to 10 euros for 500MB. If you exceed the 500MB, the per MB charge is 0.02 euros.
• Mobistar (MNO) – Owned by Orange (France Telecom), Mobistar offers various prepaid and postpaid mobile plans. Their mobile internet packages range from 5 euros for 50MB to 30 euros for 500MB.  They also have a session based rate which is 0.50 euros per session plus 0.10 euros per MB.  All packages have a 0.10 euros per MB cost if you exceed the included volume.
• Mobile Vikings (MVNO, BASE network) – A new operator that is focused on those who are really just interested in data. A monthly top-up of 15 euros will get you 1GB of internet and 1000 SMSs free; the 15 euros can then be used for making calls (although the call cost per minute is relatively high at 0.24 euros per minute). If you want to do a lot of calling, they have just launched a ‘Jumbo’ offer which is 40 euros a month and a 0.14 euros per minute cost per call (same amount of free internet and SMSs). Watch your usage though… if you exceed the free 1GB, the rate jumps to 2.50 euros per MB!
• Scarlet (MVNO, Proximus network) – Owned by Belgacom, Scarlet re-launched their mobile offer using the Proximus network in February 2009. Mobile offer is free for those that combine it with other packages although you pay for what you use (in other words, there is no monthly top-up). Data is charged at 0.50 euros per MB.
• Simyo (MVNO, BASE network) – Owned by KPN, online presence only, no subscriptions, low rates, but everything is pre-pay.  Internet access is charged at 1.99 euros per MB.
• Cherry (MVNO, BASE network) – Owned by Mondial Telecom, they have an interesting offer that allows certain phones (mainly Nokia’s at the moment) to send/receive calls via WiFi and GSM networks, bridging VoIP and cellular technologies. They are working at extending this to Android and iPhones. Offers mobile internet at 0.50 euros per MB or 30 euros a month for 2GB
• Telenet (MVNO, Mobistar network) – The first in Belgium to offer a TV-Phone-Internet-Mobile bundle, Telenet offers a number of pre- and postpaid mobile packages. Data can be pay as you go (for 1 euro per MB) or you can add 200MB of data usage per month for 10 euros; if you exceed 200MB you will be charged 0.15 euros for each extra MB.

If you are looking for an even longer list of mobile operators (regardless of whether or not they provide mobile internet), check out this list of MVNOs in Belgium.

If you have used any of the above operators feel free to share your experience in the comments below. Did I miss any?

Related posts:

1. Internet Service Providers in Belgium
2. Choosing a Smartphone in Belgium
3. Online Social Networks in Belgium

Expat life can leave you feeling lost.

Recently I’ve been getting quite a few comments and emails from new expats in Belgium who are struggling with adjusting to life here. Expats in Belgium tend to be pretty transient; with terms of 2-3 years before moving on to a new posting. I wanted to find a way to answer some of these common issues and also demonstrate how we all go through rough patches in the beginning.

For that reason, I’ve decided to repost some of my older CheeseWeb posts as a Flashback series. Because there are over 500 posts on CheeseWeb now (wow! Did I really write all of that?) many of the old posts get buried and lost to the internet ether. I’ll be re-posting these with the original comments section, but adding my updated thoughts.

This first Flashback post is from February of 2007. Winters in Belgium were always rough on me and, especially in the early years, the time that I struggled with depression the most. In this post I explain some of the strategies I used to fight the blues. You know what? They still work.

I thought that once I got past the six-month hurdle, my expat days would be bright and sunny. I’m learning however, that the Expat Blues can sneak up on you when you least expect them.

On the surface, I’m the picture of the well adjusted expat – I’m settled in my home, I can find my way around Brussels and travel easily to neighbouring cities (more or less), I’m getting more comfortable with the languages I face everyday, and I’ve found ways of maintaining my career while playing the role of the trailing spouse. I even tend to be the person in my group of friends who’s always pointing out the positive aspects of living in Belgium. I couldn’t possibly be unhappy here… or so I thought.

I try hard to be positive to my fellow expats, to friends and family, and especially in my blogs. The truth is, I was so busy convincing everyone, including myself, how wonderful expat life is, that I started avoiding all of the things about it that make me unhappy.

Besides, I have great friends, an amazing family and a wonderfully supportive husband. I’m living the life I always wanted to live. I felt I didn’t have a right to be depressed about anything.

But as things contained under pressure have a tendency to do when you shake them up a little, I exploded. Suddenly all of the negative feelings that I had bottled up spewed out and now I’m trying to clean up the mess.

Don’t get me wrong, I haven’t changed my mind about expat life, or even Belgium itself. I still love it here. But I’m learning that it’s ok to have down days too.

I’m not sure exactly what triggered the Expat Blues – maybe it’s the weather (I always have been a bit prone to Seasonal Affective Disorder); maybe it’s that birthday with a big fat zero on the end of it that’s arriving in a few weeks; or maybe it’s just an ordinary old case of the blahs. Whatever the case, now that I recognise the problem, I can try to cope with it, instead of bottling it up or blocking it out.

So to cope, I’m trying to take my own advice by doing all of the things I have told my expat pals to do when Belgium is getting the best of them: I’m setting myself some work related goals and a schedule, even though I work from home; I’m trying to soak up what little daylight is available and eat healthier; and I’m trying to inspire myself creatively by surrounding myself with beautiful things.

Most of all, I’m reminding myself that it’s ok to reach out to people for help when I’m feeling down. So I’d love to hear any advice from my fellow expats who have overcome the Expat Blues.

Related posts:

1. The Fear of Standing Still
2. The 7 Link Challenge
3. Success as an Expat

My residence room in second year with Megan and LeeAnn

If you’ve been following the expat roommate interview series, you’ve already met four inspiring expat women that I had the honour of living with, in university. Now they’ve turned the tables and thrown some of my questions back at me – and added a few of their own. Today I’m talking about expat life in Belgium and finding my way as a photographer in a new country.

Since you’ve seen lots of current photos of me, I thought I’d have some fun with a few more oldies. I’ve added a lot of links to old posts, for those of you who are new to CheeseWeb and want some background. Because many of you already know my expat story, I’ll go ahead and skip right to the questions:

What challenges did you face when you first moved to Belgium and how did you resolve them?

I think any expat who moves to Belgium without the help of their employer will have the same answer – paperwork. Belgium is notorious for red-tape. There is always another document needed, another form to sign, and another line to wait in. Heck, I wasn’t even considered married when we got here.

The requirements are never spelled out and seem completely dependent on what commune you live in, what nationality you are, what time of day or day of the week it is and what the paper-pusher you are dealing with had for breakfast that day. Of course the communes are open Monday to Friday from 9-11 to serve you better… After reading the other interviews though, this sounds like a universal problem for expats.

The other biggest challenge was language and Tez asked me the question below:

Megan's Wedding: Marilla, Megan, Tez our friend Christina and Me in the front.

Has your experience being in a non-native English speaking country been vastly different from your impression of how our experiences have been? (since we’ve all stuck to English speaking countries!)

I don’t know if I would say vastly different, because certainly I relate to much of what you all have talked about in your interviews. The language issue was/is certainly a hurdle we’ve had to deal with.

When we first moved to Belgium we didn’t realise language would be an issue, since we both took French Immersion in school. We had no idea how strict the language borders were and stupidly rented a house in Flanders. It was a total shock when we went to register at our town hall and discovered they could legally only speak to us in Flemish… What the??

There was a lot of hand gesturing and frustration on both sides. Eventually, we were taken into an office. The door was locked (thoughts of deportation were running through our heads). The woman who was in charge of the office explained in perfect English what we needed to do and why she wasn’t allowed to speak to us in English. As soon as she opened the door she went back to speaking Flemish.

In Brussels, thankfully, it’s not really an issue. We even belong to a commune (neighbourhood) where English is spoken at the town hall and, worst case scenario, we can fall back on French. I have to say though, after 10 years of not speaking French, I have lost so much. I understand it 85% of the time, although there are some regional differences for sure. I have lost a lot of my vocabulary since school and my grammar is horrendous. As for writing in French, forget about it. I can manage a short email with a dictionary in one hand and a bescherelle in the other and that’s about it.

That said, English is pretty widely spoken in most of Europe, at least in major centers, so being a native English speaker is definitely an advantage over someone who speaks say… Swahili.

Andrew and I ready for a ball

Did you experience ‘culture shock’ in Belgium? How different is it from Canada?

I definitely did, although I wouldn’t have given it that label at the time. I’m sure I suffered from depression for the first couple of years we were here. On the one hand I loved all of the traveling we were doing but on the other I was incredibly lonely. I also had to re-define my ‘self.’ Suddenly I was jobless, but yet I wasn’t a stay at home mom. My self-worth hit an all-time low. Fortunately I was blogging, both for CheeseWeb and for another expat site here in Belgium. I recently wrote how blogging saved my expat life. Building my photography career was the other life-saver.

Belgium is different from Canada in so many ways, but surprisingly similar in a few too. We both have more than one official language and there can be tension between the different cultures. We both believe in health-care for everyone, although the standard is much higher in Belgium.

It is much more crowded here. People live in much smaller spaces. That took some getting used to.

There isn’t as much competition here to have the biggest house, the nicest car, the most prestigious job. There is a much better balance between work and life. People actually take their holidays – long ones, without thinking twice. It can be a bit surprising at first when you turn up at your favourite shop or restaurant only to find out it’s closed for three weeks for the staff holiday.

How has your life as an expat influenced your photography?

Becoming an expat actually let me become a full-time photographer in a roundabout way. Back in Canada I was doing photography but always in my spare-time after my ‘real job.’ My real jobs paid my bills but certainly didn’t fulfill my soul in any meaningful way. I was never willing to take the risk and do photography full time because I was afraid that I wouldn’t make any money and therefore not ‘contribute’ to our family.

When we moved to Belgium, I couldn’t legally get a job so I was forced to find other ways to fill my time. Naturally I turned back to photography, especially since I was so inspired by the travel we were doing. I had the time to build my website and submit work to on-line agencies. I also have time to do more training on-line and my reading books by inspirational photographers.

Most recently I’ve been inspired by the incredible artistic community here in Belgium and that is definitely taking my work in new and exciting ways that I don’t think I even understand yet. I really doubt any of this would have happened if we stayed in Halifax.

Mexican Murder Mystery Party: LeeAnn, Marilla, Amy and Tez and Andrew in the front

How do you define ‘home’ and where is that for you?

I did a blog post on my definition of ‘home,’ way back in 2005 and I still feel the same way. There are places I feel at ease in as soon as I know I’m close by. Some are places I lived and some are only places I’ve visited. They all give me the same feeling. It’s a feeling of comfort, of relaxation and more often than not it has to do with the people there I love and who make it special for me.

What have you learned from being an expat?

I’ve learned so much – about the world and about myself. The more I travel, the more I learn people are more the same than they are different. At the end of the day, we all want the same basic things in life: safety, health, freedom and love. It doesn’t get much more basic than that.

I’ve also learned a lot about the fragility of this planet that we live on and that we have to stop passing the buck and take responsibility in our own lives for the messes we’ve made. If we don’t, there won’t be anything left for future generations to explore and discover.

In my own life, I’ve learned that I can’t control the future. Having a plan is helpful but you have to be willing to make changes. You have to take each new day and new challenge as it comes. The hardest thing for me is not to worry about things before they happen – because they may never happen. I’m a worrier by nature so this has been a tough one.

Have you done anything since moving to Belgium that you never would have expected?

SO many things… I guess the biggest shock was I discovered that at heart I’m a city dweller. I always thought I was a country girl. I grew up outside of a small city, surrounded by loads of land. When Andrew and I bought our house, we had three acres, well outside of the city. Now I sit on my terrace and am surrounded by houses and see skyscrapers a few streets away. I’m smack-dab in the middle of the capital of Europe. My ‘yard’ is a 10 m² terrace. But I love it!

I love that I can walk to the biggest gallery in Brussels; the royal palace and EU headquarters are right around the corner; that every where I look are different skin colours and languages being spoken; that there are so many festivals you couldn’t possibly attend them all; that I can jump on the metro, just up the street, and be anywhere in the city in minutes. I love the hum and vibrancy of the city.

I do miss peace and quiet and wide open spaces and especially the ocean, but I can’t imagine giving up the excitement or convenience of the city.

At my Wedding - Roommates re-united

Since you’re a self-professed foodie – what’s the best food discovery you’ve made as an expat?

Seriously? Only one? I can’t do it! My whole concept of food has changed since I moved over here. It’s only since moving here that I considered myself a foodie. Belgians have a passion for food that I would argue rivals the French or Italians. Although instead of being steadfast to one particular type of food, Belgians take in and adapt foods from all over. In Brussels you can eat any style of food you can imagine: French, Italian, Portuguese, Ethiopian, Romanian, Polish… you name it. So that said, my best food discovery has been – Food!

Ok, that’s a cop-out I know. So here are a few things I hadn’t eaten before I moved here and now love:

Stoofvlees (Dutch) or Carbonade (French) – This is a magical dish of beef that is stewed for hours in beer. There is much debate over which beer to make it with (there’s 600+ Belgian beers to choose from after all) and what else to add. It is always served with perfect Belgian Frites (French fries, actually invented in Belgium).

Foie Gras – I don’t know how something that sounds so wrong in theory can be so amazingly right. I know this is a very controversial food from an ethics stand-point. I’m always very careful to buy sustainably and ethically produced foie. But honestly, I don’t think anyone who eats factory farmed chicken has any right to point a finger at foie eaters.

Moroccan Food, particularly tajines – There’s a huge Moroccan population here in Brussles and a lot of great Moroccan restaurants. Aside from couscous, I hadn’t had Moroccan food before moving here. The tajine is a type of stew, named after the conical dish it’s cooked in. My favourite one is made with chicken, preserved lemons and green olives. Yum!

Moelleux Chocolat – I’m not a huge dessert eater but this French dish is incredible. It is essentially an individual chocolate cake that is cooked on the outside and runny and gooey on the inside. Serve it with a bit of vanilla ice-cream or some crème anglais… enough said J

What do you miss from Canada?

London May 2010: Home for us is wherever we are with good friends.

As everyone said, I miss my family and friends the most. It’s hard missing out on the day to day stuff and the big events. Thank god for Skype, Facebook and e-mail. We’ve also been lucky that both sets of parents have visited as well as my sister-in-law Katie and some of our friends. That’s always great.

There are a few food items I miss like garlic fingers, sushi pizza and fresh, un-sweetened cranberry juice.

I miss huge, affordable, English bookstores like Chapters.

Besides that, I miss the ocean. I grew up overlooking the Bay of Fundy and was never far from the Atlantic in Halifax. We’re a few hours from the Belgian coast and it’s just not the same.

Where do you see yourself in the future?

I gave up trying to predict the future. I never would have imagined this life for myself even seven years ago. I’m open to whatever life throws at us as long as there is lots of travel, good food and wine and a bunch great people in the mix.

Related posts:

1. Expat Life in England: An Interview with Marilla
2. Expat Life in New Zealand: An Interview with LeeAnn
3. Expat Life in Northern Canada: An Interview with Megan

Tostadas de Pollo al Mole Verde

Ask any international food-lover what cuisine is missing from the endless offerings in Brussels and you’ll get the same answer – Mexican food. Andrew and I have been on a mission to find good Mexican food in Brussels for the past five years, and now, our mission is finally complete.

Andrew and I love Mexican food. I’m not talking about Tex-Mex that is often so heavy and greasy it will stop your heart. If you are looking for that in Brussels, you’ll find it a Chi-Chi’s. Of course, you may also find heart-burn and food-poisoning, but whatever floats your boat…

Empanadas and fried tacos

What I crave is fresh, delicious Mexican food, using real Mexican ingredients like tomatillios, varieties of peppers that don’t exist in Europe and salsas that don’t come from a jar. I’m talking about the kind of Mexican food we used to eat weekly in Amsterdam at our beloved Los Pilones. In fact, we’ve been known to get so desperate for a fix, we’ve driven to Amsterdam and back just to have supper.

We are fortunate to live not far from a lovely little South American restaurant called El Vergel, which I highly recommend. It’s not strictly Mexican food, but it is fresh and delicious. Unfortunately, they are only open for lunch, except for Thursday evenings, and they’re closed on weekends.

Our first order from MexiGo

But last week, thanks to a lovely new expat friend, the Brussels food scene just got even better.  Not only did we have fresh, delicious Mexican food, but it was delivered right to our door.

MexiGo makes authentic Mexican food and delivers it for free within Brussels on a set schedule. You can choose from tacos, tamales, tringas, empanadas, and 2 weekly dishes. In addition, you can order home-made tortillas and tostadas, salsa, sauces and guacamole, rice, beans and even cocktails. Margaritas anyone?

You order before Wednesday evening and your food is delivered on Friday or Saturday (You can also pick it up yourself on Thursdays). Last Friday, we gave it a try and were not disappointed.

Because we weren’t sure what to expect, we ordered a variety of items to try:

• Tacos de Bisteck (beef)
• Empanadas Caseras de Carne Molida
• Fiesta Tacos Fried -Chicken
• Flour Tortillas
• Tostadas
• Tostadas de Pollo al Mole Verde (Item of the week)

Great packaging and labeling

Everything is packaged so you can pop it in the fridge and eat it whenever you like. I was very impressed by the labelling. Each element of a dish is marked with a coloured dot which corresponds to an instruction sheet. The sheet tells you how to prepare and store your dish properly. There are options for both the oven and microwave and the dishes are very quick and easy to prepare.

So I’m sure you’re wondering how it tasted. The answer – fantastic! Right after our food was delivered, we tucked into the Tostadas de Pollo. The chicken had a great flavour and was meltingly tender. The tostadas were crispy and delicious. We had some later with my home-made salsa and they were great. We also tried the fried tacos, a great substitute for our favourite appetiser at Los Pilones, flautas. The empanadas were also great and I am in love with the chipolte sauce they came with. If I could order it by the gallon, consider it sold.

The following day we had the beef tacos and polished off the empanadas. The tacos were also very tasty although next time I would get the flour tortillas instead of the corn which we both found a bit grainy.

The portions aren’t large. One dish per person plus an appetiser is probably a reasonable amount. A selection of dishes would make for a great party buffet.

The price was incredibly reasonable considering we got two meals and some added ingredients. Our total was 30 euro and delivery is free; that is next to unheard of in this city.

We’ve already placed our order for this week and are eagerly awaiting our next Mexican fiesta.

Check out this post for more of my favourite restaurants and feel free to suggest your own. What foods is your town lacking? Leave your comments below.

Related posts:

1. 3 Foodie Travel Secrets for Brussels, Belgium
2. Confessions of a Food Snob
3. Taste the World

Choosing a smartphone

One of the main reasons we’re expats, is to get out and see the world. Sharing our experiences of new places, through words and photos, is one of the pillars of CheeseWeb.

However, with the rise of social media, her success in art, and her growing websites, Alison has increasingly found herself tied to her office. She has a laptop, which enables her to move around the house, but it’s a bit cumbersome when she’s out photographing, with a backpack full of camera gear.

So how can she stay mobile, but still have ways to interact with all you lovely people anytime, anywhere? The answer: a smartphone.

I emphasize smartphone because it’s not really a phone that is intelligent. It is a micro-computer that happens to have a phone built in. And a GPS. And WiFi. And Bluetooth. And it (sort of) fits in your pocket. In fact, I think people who own smartphones use them more extensively than their regular computers. It’s convenient, always on, has a variety of tools, and can distract you during the next layover.

Canadian vs European mobile phones

We haven’t always been cutting edge when it comes to mobile phones. When we first arrived in Belgium, we bought the cheapest phones available, so we could call each other and, as we got to know people, our friends. We used them purely as phones. Europeans were very accustomed to doing more with their mobiles (texting is a prime example), but eastern Canadian mobile providers were not as advanced. (we got 1-way text messaging in 2004!) Upon arriving on the continent, we quickly adopted text messaging instead of calling, as it was cheaper, but otherwise our mobiles were still just phones.

Then, a little over a year ago, after swearing I would never ever have a Blackberry again, I ended up with a Bold so I could stay on top of work, while traveling.  I still don’t think Alison has forgiven me, but I do think she’s starting to understand the need to stay on top of things. She certainly saw that having the Blackberry enabled me to do some interesting ’social’ things like checking Facebook, Twitter, uploading photos, etc.  So she bit the bullet and decided that a smartphone made sense.

No iphone for Alison

Of course, being the resident geek, she asked me to provide her with some options.  That turned out to be a good and a bad thing. Good because I love to research the newest technologies. Bad because I always decide on the most expensive option. I was looking for a device that would have a good user interface (touch screen), a nice display, WiFi, and a large list of available applications.

Now, I know you’re thinking, “Aha!  She must have bought an Apple iPhone!” However the iPhone, in my view, is too restrictive. You can only install and run applications that have been approved by Apple and appear in their online store. I don’t have anything against Apple. I know they are trying to maintain the user experience and weed out the malicious or inane applications. But recent changes to their policies make me cringe a little inside.

Google Android – the choice for Social Media

Having ruled out the iPhone, I did some research and decided phones running Google Android were the way to go. At heart, Android is built around the web and social media, so it seemed the best fit for Alison. This also gave her a wide choice of phones and applications. What impressed me further, is Android is still being actively improved and there is a large community innovating around the platform.

At the moment, I would argue the technology leader for Android phones is HTC, although I’m keen to see/touch the Samsung Galaxy S,which should be out now. (To any Samsung reps, I’m happy to test and review!) HTC has a range of phones, but as with all smartphones, they’re not cheap – the least expensive being more than 300 euros!

And the winner is... the HTC Desire

After viewing all that HTC had on offer, I managed to get Alison to agree to the latest HTC model, the HTC Desire.

The Desire is very similar to the Google Nexus One and, importantly to me, has the latest technology which will enable it to be upgraded, (whenever Android 2.2 is released and HTC repackages it) and run even the heaviest of applications (like Swirl, the wine guide ).  This may be more than most people need, but like I said earlier, asking me for options is a good and bad thing!

We brought the Desire home, connected it to the WiFi network in the house, and Alison was off and running (or at least climbing the learning curve).

Next week I’ll discuss what to think about when contemplating mobile internet for your phone. Coming soon, Alison will list some great Android applications for travellers.

Related posts:

1. Mobile Operators in Belgium
2. Online Social Networks in Belgium
3. Internet Service Providers in Belgium

LeeAnn and Megan during the Uni days.

Today we meet the final subject of my university roommate expat interview series.  We head back to New Zealand, Wellington this time, to chat with LeeAnn who has been an expat on two continents.

LeeAnn was the English major of our group and she and I had several classes together when I wasn’t studying journalism with Megan. She always had the best reading material and I am thrilled that she just started a new blog, all about books! We spent many afternoons browsing the second-hand bookshops of Halifax together.

LeeAnn grew up on the outskirts of Halifax and actually attended high school with Andrew. She’s moved from one rocky coast to another on the other side of the world.

Tell us a bit about how you came to be an expat.

Well, to start at the very beginning: I have wanted to go off on adventures and see the world since I was a very young girl. I told my mother that I was going to go to Bangkok, Thailand when I was six. She laughed and told me I’d have to wait awhile. I did get there in the end, just 25-ish years later.

I did try to see all of Canada before heading off to experience other countries. But Canada is just so big! I’m from a small seaside village 40 minutes outside of Halifax, Nova Scotia. In the end I only got as far west as the Rockies and I haven’t been to Newfoundland or the Northern Territories at all. Someday!

When the opportunity came up to join my fabulous friend Marilla in England, I just couldn’t resist!

I had loads of adventures and met some great people while living in England. But after almost two years, I decided that it was time for me to go home, settle in one spot and get a ‘real job’. Only that’s not what life had planned for me.

LeeAnn getting excited by Maple leaves in her soup in Japan.

You’ve been an expat twice now. Was it easier or harder the second time?

It was unexpected the second time! And I suppose that made it easy.

I stayed with my family in Canada for almost two months after returning from England. During that time I decided to visit my lovely friend Tez for a road trip around the South Island of New Zealand. I got a working holiday visa so that I could travel and work sporadically in New Zealand for another month or two before flying home to Canada.

During our road trip, Tez and I only spent one night in Wellington, New Zealand’s capital, before boarding the ferry to the South Island first thing the next morning. In that short time I fell in love with Wellington. It’s a lovely little city on the sea, encircled by forest, with friendly people and a lively, creative hum.

When we took the ferry back across to Wellington near the end of our trip, the sun was shining and I remember telling Tez that I had the strange feeling that I was going home. So I decided to spend my time in Wellington before heading back to Canada.

Arriving back in Wellington was a great adventure! I didn’t know anyone, so I had heaps of time to wander and explore. I met strange and wonderful people. I spent a lot of time in museums and galleries, soaking in New Zealand culture.

In a nutshell: I took the first job I was offered, met an amazing Kiwi boy at the office and over four years later we have a home together here in Wellington.

What challenges did you face when you first moved to England and New Zealand and how did you resolve them?

I suppose thinking back it’s the red tape and paperwork that’s creates challenges when you move somewhere new. In England getting a bank account wasn’t simple. I needed a job for the bank to give me an account and I needed a bank account before my employer would issue me with a job contract. In the end I had to talk my prospective employer into giving me a letter for the bank, so that I could get a bank account and then my job contract.

In New Zealand the most challenging thing has been renewing visas and getting my residency sorted, but that wasn’t too harrowing. It just seemed that there was always another form or fee or doctor’s visit or document from Canada you had to send off for, just when you thought you were done! I’m sure expats all over the world can relate to that!

In England, sometimes just being a ‘foreigner’ (as they say in the UK) can create challenges for you. Trying to find a job, for example. I had a Degree in English Literature and a new Publishing qualification, but there weren’t any entry level publishing jobs going. I must have applied everywhere in London, sometimes twice.

I got used to rejection by letter and phone. But, you have to be philosophical about these things! In the end I found a good job at the local council, where I met some great people and gained countless interesting insights into British culture. It was a memorable experience.

Did you experience ‘culture shock’ in either country? How are they different from Canada?

LeeAnn and Warwick in Rotorua NZ - on the chair lift to the luge

Seeing as Canada is a Commonwealth country, I thought I wouldn’t have too much culture shock in England, but it’s so different from Canada in some essential ways!

It wasn’t just the accents and the slang (which are both endlessly interesting)! It was the history and the worldview. Canada is so new; it was bizarre living somewhere where there were roads built by the Romans and buildings that were so old! There was such an amazing feeling of place and history. I loved that.

At the same time, in some ways, history creates baggage. I observed that the English have a (mostly) friendly rivalry with their neighbours: the Scottish, Irish, Welsh and French. And despite cities, like London, being full of people from all over the world, I heard some English people express very stereotypical views about other cultures, which caught me a by surprise.

New Zealand is much like Canada, geographically and in temperament: we’re both countries with a big, dominant neighbour and we have much of the same geography (NZ just has is conveniently compressed into a much smaller area).

We both have an innovative, can-do, ‘pioneering’ spirit. We’re both quietly patriotic, modest and friendly. We both value the natural world. We’re both obsessed by our respective national sports.

I would have to say that it’s an easy shift for a Canadian to settle in New Zealand and vice versa.

How do you define ‘home’ and where is that for you?

I call Canada home-home. It’s my homeland, and I’m proud to be a Canadian.

I feel you get a more thorough appreciation of your identity and values as a Canadian when you go overseas. Plus, Canada is where all of my family is. It will always be home to me.

But New Zealand is home too. I feel a sense of belonging here, in many ways. My Kiwi guy, Warwick, is my family. And I have an amazing circle of friends who I can count on like family.

The idea of ‘home’ and ‘belonging’ is complicated. It’s also emotional. When it comes down to it, I suppose, anywhere can grow to become home, but there will only ever be one homeland.

What have you learned from being an expat?

So much! I find it endlessly interesting to learn how things work differently in different places. And to gain insights into how people see the world differently. That’s why I love travel in general.

Anytime you go somewhere new you get to be an outsider: you can to observe and ask questions. I think it’s great to have that opportunity to see the world in new ways, and to better understand others.

You also learn more about yourself, and your country, through better understanding others.

It will sound super corny, but you learn again and again that although we may see things in different ways, when it comes down to it we’re all human beings who come from the same place (our parents) and just want to be ourselves, belong somewhere and be happy.

You learn that it’s the people that around you that make a place home. And you learn that you’ll never stop missing the place that you came from and the people who are important to you there. And so, out of necessity, you learn creative new ways to manage homesickness.

Have you done anything since moving to NZ that you never would have expected?

I would say that settling in New Zealand was very unexpected. Other than that I can’t think of anything specific that I have done in NZ that falls into the unexpected category.

What do you love and hate about New Zealand?

LeeAnn and Warwick posing on the desert plateau in New Zealand

I find living in the southern hemisphere strange. I don’t ever think I’ll get used to Christmas in the summer.

I suppose the most challenging thing about living in New Zealand is the distance from other places. But that’s also part of its charm. It’s isolated and independent.

I love the compactness of New Zealand – you can go from sea to mountain to farmland to a soak in a thermal pool in no time flat!

I love the people here. So many people made me feel welcome when I first moved to Wellington. It was really amazing.

I love learning Maori words. It’s a beautiful language and a rich culture.

And I love hearing Warwick try and do my Canadian accent – he sounds like Kermit the Frog! Somehow, that’s always entertaining.

What do you miss?

About Canada? I miss everything!

Most of all, I miss my family: spending time with my parents, laughing over nothing with my brother and sister, getting to see my charming wee cousins grow up. I miss going around to my grandparents’ for a cup of tea and natter. That’s the hardest thing about living on the absolute other side of the earth – you are so far away and it’s expensive to get home. You develop strategies to deal with how inexpressibly hard it is to be far from your family.

I also miss being surrounded by Canadian things: I miss turning on the radio and hearing the CBC (though I stream a few shows it’s not the same). I miss hearing my own accent all around me (although whether I still have my Canadian accent is a topic of debate). I miss loonies and snow and being able to say ‘toque’ without seeing a confused face looking back at me. I miss being able to read French on all of the road signs and cereal packets. I miss how familiar and comfortable things are at home.

Where do you see yourself in the future?

I have found a perfect match here in New Zealand, so home is here with him and our crazy cat Yoshi.

We’ve decided if we ever win the lotto that we’d live half the year in my hometown in Canada and half the year here in New Zealand. And sprinkle some travel in between, of course. It would be endless summer! I guess we should start buying lotto tickets!

So how lucky was I to be friends and room-mates with all of these amazing women? But this isn’t quite the end of the series yet. Next week, the tables are turned and the room-mates get to interview me. What do you think they should ask me?

Related posts:

1. Expat Life in New Zealand: An Interview with Tez
2. Expat Life in England: An Interview with Marilla
3. Expat Life in Belgium: An Interview with Alison

Happy Canada Day!

Just because I love living in Brussels, doesn’t mean I don’t miss Canada. In fact, I think living outside your home country makes you even more patriotic, as Marilla touched on in her interview.

I’m sending out a huge thanks to fellow Canadian abroad, Tammy, who posted this video which I absolutely love. I may have even gotten a little choked up…. just a little. *sniff*

You see, it was filmed in Halifax, my home for ten years. There are scenes shot at the Peggy’s Cove lighthouse. Andrew grew up just down the road from those rocks and we spent a lot of time there. I recognise every building in the background and just about every tree and rock in that video.

I love all of the references in the song to things I miss and most of all I love the self-depricating humour so common to my fellow Canuks. We love to laugh at ourselves.

So wherever you are and wherever you’re from, I hope you have a fantastic Canada day! I can’t wait to walk those streets and stand on those rocks in August!

Related posts:

1. I Love Nova Scotia
2. Our Maritime Canada Whirlwind Tour
3. Canadian Please!

Chilling at the spa - image by duchessa

It’s been blistering hot in Brussels for the past week or so. Although I love to see the sun, after melting in my 30+ degree living-room, I was ready to cool off. Fighting for a square inch of sand on the Belgian coast didn’t appeal and we’ve decided not to renew our gym membership, so the pool was out. Wondering where I could escape the heat on Saturday, I realised we hadn’t been to a Belgian spa in over a year.

Since it was after 5pm, driving to Thermes de Spa didn’t make sense, but we could easily get to Grimbergen spa for the evening. I did a quick check on their website and discovered they opened a brand new spa in May.  Knowing I have a duty to investigate all things new and exciting in Belgium for you loyal readers, I packed my towel and swimsuit and headed to the Thermae Boetfort.

If you’ve never been to a Belgian spa, you’d be forgiven for wondering how this activity was going to help me battle the heat. Unlike their North American counterparts, spas in Belgium aren’t only focused on massages and facials. Although these typical spa treatments are available, the main feature in a Belgian spa is the thermal pool.

You pay a daily rate and have at your disposal: swimming pools, Jacuzzis, saunas, steam rooms and the like. They are great places to relax and unwind without the distractions of computers and mobile phones.

Having enjoyed the Grimbergen spa on many occasions, I had high expectations for their new venture. Thermae Boetfort did not disappoint.

A Visit to Thermae Boetfort

Pulling into the parking area, you are met with the view of the 400 year old castle Boetfort. It was built by Henricus Madoets, a wealthy inhabitant of Brussels, as a country estate. Now, the castle itself serves as the spa’s restaurant. But, more on that later.

The beautiful reception area was a good indication of what was to come. We registered and were given waterproof wristbands. These activate your locker in the changing area and are also scanned if you purchase anything at the restaurant so you don’t need to worry about cash while in the spa area. We crossed the garden and descended into the very large and modern changing area in the basement of the castle.

Like Grimbergen, Boetfort spa is separated into two areas: one for visitors who prefer to wear bathing-suits, and one for visitors who prefer to go naked. Being prudish North Americans, we always opt for the bathing-suit side, although I keep saying one day I will be brave enough to be truly European. It’s unlikely to happen anytime before I’m 80.

Exiting the basement toward the spa level, you first arrive at the steam-room. It is very spacious, has seating on two levels and is filled with eucalyptus scented steam.

Just relax - photo by rjuliana

As you continue upstairs, you emerge into a large light-filled room with lounge chairs. The windows overlook the pool and terrace, which is also filled with lounge chairs; a perfect spot for sunbathing. From this room you can exit via several doors onto the terrace or descend directly into the pool. The pool isn’t large like the one at Thermes de Spa, but it’s adequate for a dip to cool off. The terrace area is spacious and the lounge chairs are comfortable.

On the terrace there is a small, round, wooden building we called the hobbit house. Inside it was an Infrared sauna. I didn’t find it terribly warm or interesting but it could be a nice way to warm up on a colder day.

Also on the terrace are two Jacuzzis. These were comfortable and just the right temperature.

Back inside the spa building are more interesting areas to discover. There is a large traditional sauna equipped with coloured light therapy lights. Nearby is a large semi-circular foot-bath with heated benches; a comfortable spot to relax.

Heading upstairs into a loft area, there is a relaxation room with mats and pillows on the floor. Beyond it, there is a second sauna called the music sauna. This uses the loft space in an interesting way. Instead of flat benches like a traditional sauna, the wood here is moulded into a recliner-like seat, making it very comfortable.

My favourite spot however was the Relaxation Bath. This salty pool is located in what looks like an old wine cellar. The moulded pool has comfortable seating and a deeper area for floating. It is cozy and dark with changing coloured lights – it definitely lives up to its name.

If you get peckish from all the effort you spend relaxing, there is a beautiful restaurant in the ground floor of the castle. It seemed a bit odd to be sitting in such stately surroundings in my bathrobe, but it certainly felt decadent. There is also a terrace where food and drinks are served, if you prefer to enjoy the sun.

I haven’t yet sampled any of the additional services at Thermae Boetfort (or the nudist side of the spa) but if they match the level of quality I experienced during my visit, I’m sure they are superb. It seems as if the owners of Grimbergen spa took everything that worked, and improved on everything that didn’t to create a new and even better place to relax.

Located near the Zaventem airport, in the village of Melsbroek, it was a quick drive from the city and one that I will be sure to make again soon.

Address:
Thermae Boetfort
Sellaerstraat 42
B – 1820 Melsbroek
Tel.: +32 (0)2 759.81.9

http://www.boetfort.be/

Open every day from 10.30am until 12pm

Have you visited Thermae Boetfort or another Belgian spa? Tell me about it in the comments.

Related posts:

1. Spa-ah
2. A Source of Indulgence
3. Belgian Chocolate Shops in Brussels, Grand Sablon

ACM Photography at AAF - A bit of opening night jitters

I’ve been reminded, by the lovely Lee in Italy, that I haven’t written about my experience at this spring’s Accessible Art Fair. So here goes…

The Conrad Hotel was a much more upscale venue and the location on Ave. Louise was great for attracting the weekend shoppers. I liked that all of the artists were in the same room this time. We had a bar set-up in the middle with delicious cupcakes as well as drinks. Visitors seemed to flow smoothly through the layout as well.

The only downside to the location was the horrible carpet, which looked like it belonged to a Vegas casino, circa 1968. It really didn’t flatter the art. In fact, I think we artists are still suffering from nightmares of being sucked into the terrible pattern.

The Friday night opening had a fabulous buzz and the aisles were packed. However, people seemed more inclined to socialize over their champagne rather than buy art. Saturday was quite busy as well, considering the beautiful weather outside. I was getting a bit nervous by the end of the day, as I had only sold one large piece. The other artists around me were having similar worries. Lots of visitors were engaging in conversations about the art but not many were pulling out their wallets.

Buyers and artists interacting at AAF

Come Sunday, the mood changed. Suddenly the buyers became serious. We saw many of the same faces we had seen Friday and Saturday but now they were back to shop. And shop they did! I am happy to say that by the end of day Sunday, I had far less to pack up than I came with.

All in all, it was a great success. I had some excellent conversations with art-lovers, handed out a lot of business cards and got to meet a few CheeseWeb readers, which I think was the best part of all.

As always, there were loads of pieces I would have loved to buy, if I had the money. I hope, in the future, to profile a few of the artists here on CheeseWeb. Many of them are expats with interesting stories to share, so stay tuned for that!

Andrew was busy all weekend photographing all of the art and artists. Despite some bad lighting conditions he did a great job (especially after a little Photoshop help from yours truly). For those of you who didn’t get to make it to the Accessible Art Fair, I’ve put together a taste of what you missed in this little video.

Related posts:

1. The Brussels Accessible Art Fair 2009
2. Brussels Accessible Art Fair – Ave. Louise
3. Brussels Accessible Art Fair

My fabulous deep red clematis.

Earlier in the spring, I started Project Terrific Terrace, to beautify my ‘garden.’ I took a few photos this morning to show you all how it’s been progressing.

Mostly, it’s been going well. I debated just showing you the lovely photos and letting you believe I am a fantastically gifted gardener. I figured you wouldn’t buy it so I may as well be honest.

If left to our own devices, Andrew and I would probably starve if we had to rely on ourselves for food. Andrew’s strawberries died a few weeks after we planted them. All 6 plants are now  - deceased.

The tomatoes are another story. We blame the Belgian weather. It was hot and sunny when we first put them outside. Then it turned cold – very cold. We brought them in and tried to resuscitate them. They live on, but have gone completely leggy and there’s not one flower to be seen. I seriously doubt there will be a tomato crop this year.

All is not totally lost on the produce front, however. My cayenne pepper plant is covered in blossoms. If nothing else, I’ll be able to spice up our lives with my peppers.

Cayenne Pepper Blossom

For the most part, my herbs are doing well. My lemon balm, rosemary, thymes, bay and chives are all great. I planted 3 tiny plants in one planter – marjoram, mint and apple mint – and they are all huge now. Mojitos anyone?

Left to right: apple mint, marjoram and mint

On the bad news front, both of my lavender plants, which I have had for 5 years now, up and died out of the blue. I have no clue what killed them. One of my new sages also seemed to contract the plague and die. However my variegated purple sage looks fantastic!

Variegated Purple Sage

My ice plant garden is also filling out nicely.

Ice plant garden

Speaking of ice plants, I had one little hen & chick plant that wouldn’t fit in the ice plant garden. I popped her into a pot of her own and look what happened…

Hens and Chicks in Bloom

My wisteria is alive and well. Unfortunately I didn’t get any photos of it in bloom as it has been ridiculously windy lately. It is now green and happy, but flower-less.

I do still have colour on the terrace, however. My Azalea is still blooming, as are my pansies. I also have a sweet little geranium on the go.

Geranium

My pride and joy is my beautiful clematis. This has taken over from my dearly departed passionflower from last year. I just love the deep red colour. I’ll leave you with a few photos of this beauty.

Clematis

Clematis

Clematis

So overall, I think Project Terrific Terrace has been a success. What do you think?

Related posts:

1. Project Terrific Terrace 2010
2. Passionflower Explosion!
3. Tulip Mania